When to come, and what the sea is doing

November to April — the dry season

Calm sea, reliable sun, every boat and water sport operating. This is when Phuket looks like the photographs, and it is priced accordingly.

It is also the busiest window, so book boats and the better restaurant tables ahead rather than on the day.

May to October — the wet season

Lower prices, far fewer people, and a greener island. Rain tends to arrive in heavy bursts rather than all day, so a wet-season trip is not a write-off.

The real cost is the sea. Swell and rip currents build on the west coast, lifeguards fly red flags, and boat trips are cancelled when the water is bad. If a beach day is the whole point of your trip, this is the gamble.

Never swim past a red flag. People drown on this coast every year doing exactly that, and the currents do not look dangerous from the sand.

The months nobody warns you about

April and May are the hottest part of the year, before the rain breaks the heat. Midday is genuinely punishing — plan the temples and viewpoints for early morning.

October and November are the transition: cooler, and often still quite wet. Cheap, but you are buying a lottery ticket on the weather.

Maya Bay closes every year from 1 August to 30 September, which catches out anyone who booked a Phi Phi trip specifically to stand on that beach.